1st Safari - Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge in Botswana

OUR 1ST SAFARI - SANDIBE OKAVANGO SAFARI LODGE IN BOTSWANA

Here’s a little background information: I planned our first safari ever in Botswana. Maggie from ProAfrica – yes Protravel has an African Specialist who assisted me with choosing and arranging our accommodations. We worked with & Beyond because of their stellar reputation. We are traveling with my husband, Jeff and dear friends, Ruth and Dan. It is Dan, Jeff’s and my first safari. Right now, I am writing this overlooking part of the Okavango Delta at the Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge. I hear hippos, birds and frogs right now. Off in the distance is a wildfire which has been going on for the past few days. It is across from the water because we are in a wetland. There are so many things to write about and I’ve decided to just give you the highlights.

First, & Beyond, Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge. To call this place a lodge is not correct. There are only 8 detached bungalow rooms on the property. So far, I’ve counted 16 staff. The rooms have dual sinks, an outdoor shower, king beds and mosquito netting – another first for me! The room is maintained 3 times per day. Here’s something funny/interesting…there is elephant poop along the walkway. Why is there elephant poop around the walkway…because elephants roam freely – as do other animals like an occasional hippo. :-) (VERY COOL)
Every morning, we awake to a drum beating outside of our bungalow – at 5:30 am! A continental breakfast is served at 6:00am then the game drive leaves at 6:30am. The sunrises have been stupendous! We have two guides – Gift and Gomes who have been with us the entire time. Gift is 29 and the lead guide and Gomes is 22 and the spotter. The four of us have had our vehicle to ourselves which is great because if we want to stop and watch baboons at play for 20 minutes…it’s ok! It’s our time!

Sandibe’s property is huge. I feel as though I have been bounced around from the dry lands with impalas ranging to the wetlands that host birds of many kinds, antelope, hippos and more. Our first game drive was when we arrived. We were picked up at an airstrip (6 seat airplanes are NOT my thing) and taken to Sandibe which is 45 minutes away. On the way, we saw our first lions! What a way to begin.

Some of the highlights have been:
-a giraffe nursing her baby
-4 female lions and 2 babies deciding whether to chase and kill a giraffe
-elephants at play
-zebras and wildebeests sharing the same space
-baboons at play as well as the vervets (small monkeys) here on the property
-the sound of an angry elephant roar as wild dogs are taunting it
-Gomes pointing out a shooting star









I have a few observations to share:
-there are 3 vehicles with guides. They share their sightings and stay at a respectful distance from whatever they are observing
-our guides, Gift and Gomes are exceptionally knowledgeable. If they do not know an answer, they look it up in the books that they carry – books about birds and wildlife.
-our guides look at many things to track the animals. They look for vultures which indicate a recent kill, they follow wild dogs as they hunt, and they look at paw prints and can distinguish between all of the various animals
-this part of the Okavango Delta is so vast. This is harmony here in the way that the animals interact. Some of it brings smiles to your face as you see various animals living together and others are the reality of animal life…the hunted and the hunter.


I didn’t know what to expect from a safari. The sun is setting, the crickets are starting to sound out and the birds are calling. The electricity is off for the next 2 hours and my life has calmed down. I’ve reached out of my “comfort zone” and am proud of how I’ve handled the small challenges that this city girl has come across. We’ve concentrated on animals more than birds or plants at this location. Tomorrow, we are traveling to another part of the Okavango Delta and will be staying at & Beyond Xaranna. We will be observing more birds and plants than wildlife at Xaranna. Wish me luck on the next 6 seater airplane!!!





MARI

What to See in Cape Town

WHAT TO SEE IN CAPE TOWN

I’m on the plane going to Joberg then off to Maun Botswana to begin our safari adventure. Before I do, I wanted to squeeze in more Cape Town’s highlights.

From the Cape Grace Hotel in the Waterfront, we began our full day tour by driving past Bantry Bay, Clifton Bay and Camps Bay. Beautiful bays with houses overlooking the bay. We drove to Hout Bay where we stopped to take pictures of dolphins at play. From there we drove to the most Southwestern point in Africa – the Cape of Good Hope.
We visited the old lighthouse and saw the new lighthouse which was built because the old lighthouse too often was lost in the clouds and useless to sailors. We saw funky birds called Hadadas and Sacred Ibis. Sacred Ibis birds are seen in Egypt as well. They are interesting birds with long pointed black beaks. We also were greeted by an Agama – which looks like a black gecko. We took pictures of Ostriches sitting by the road…very cool.
Our next stop was at Simon’s Town. We saw the African Penguins. Many were molting. We were lucky that the weather G-d’s were on our side…breezy weather, partly sunny with the only sprinkle occurring while we were having our lunch.

Our final stop was at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. I’m not a garden person. Black thumb…little patience. However, the garden is a special, magical place with many areas of smaller garden arrangements ranging from florals, to water responsible plants, to endangered plants and even an area of medicinal plants. There were benches to sit on to enjoy this beautiful part of Cape Town. By the time we visited the gardens, the weather was turning. There were areas to picnic and I wish that we had more time to stay and investigate all that the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens had to offer…oh well, next time! :-)
I hope you have enjoyed my description of Cape Town. It is an emerging city with a lot of promise!!

Mari

&Beyond Xaranna Tented Camp

& Beyond Xaranna Tented Camp

I am now at & Beyond Xandara Tented Camp which has 9 tents in another part of Botswana's Okavango Delta about a 15 minute plane ride (did I say small plane) from Sandibe. These are the lux tents. Each tent has it's own plunge pool, a/c (when it works) a huge king size bed with mosquito netting (a must) and a large dual sink bathroom with a separate tub and shower. Very pretty and impressive.

It is hot as in H.O.T.! We awake at 5:00 am for our coffee and biscuit, and then at 5:30, off we go. Yesterday, we were out until 2:00 pm which was a bit too long due to the heat. We think it was over 100 degrees. The African sun is brutal. Staying hydrated and covered was the answer. I will provide a suggested packing list at the end of my journal with a few comments about heat, coverage and keeping hydrated.


The game here is not as plentiful as Sandibe. Instead of turning the corner and finding an elephant herd, we are seeing an isolated elephant or elephants in the distance.

We've met some very nice people along the way. A couple from Santa Monica getting married at the end of the journey, a mother and son from Holland, Brian who trains the guides for & Beyond to name a few.

The pace on safari is leisurely. Getting up in the morning when it is dark is a challenge (I would recommend leaving your clothes for the next day out the night before). We have our coffee (Jeff - hot chocolate) and biscuit then go on a game drive. Half way through the game drive is a coffee break (bathroom break). After the drive around 10:30, there is breakfast. Lunch is around 1:30, then a rest, then tea is at 4:00-4:30 then another evening game drive or a boat ride around the Delta. Finally, drinks around around 7:30 then dinner is served at 8:00. What a day, right?

Tomorrow, is our 1 hour 15 minute ride to Zambia. We have been warned that it is bumpy and in a 6 seater airplane. So, wish us luck and I'll tell you all about it in the next blog.


Mari

Cape Town, South Africa

Hello from Cape Town, South Africa!!!!

What an amazing city! There is just so much to see and do here. If you are visiting Cape Town alone, 3 days and 2 nights is perfect. We are food and wine lovers so we actually started in the Wine Lands. If YOU are food and wine lovers, then I would suggest 4 days and 3 nights there if you are just arriving from a long flight or 3 days 2 nights if this is the end of your journey to Africa.

More about Cape Town. This is the post aparthheid Cape Town. We have enjoyed speaking with Blacks, Coloured and Whites about this hot topic. We have been to Table Mountain for outstanding views and learning about the local flora and fauna. We toured the District 6 Museum and learned about how a racially mixed community of 60,000 residents was re-zoned as a whites-only area. Bull dozers arrived and razed all of the houses and commercial buildings. These were people's houses for generations and in a matter of a few weeks, all was destroyed. WOW!!

We enjoyed two great dinners. Aubergine is in the Gardens District. The food in creative using local ingredients. Very good.

Dinner at the Roundhouse Restaurant was outstanding. Our friends, Ruth and Dan both felt it deserved one star from Michelin. Anyways, the service was perfect as was the setting overlooking a large green space leading to Clifton Beach - one of the most affluent areas of Cape Town. The service began with 2 amuse bouche and champagne. We enjoyed bean veloute soup, potato risotto, lamb served 2 ways and dessert. Each presentation was unique.

All in all, I can say the food in South Africa has been thoroughly outstanding both in quality and presentation.

It's 4:00 am and I have to go...where? Botswana!!!

Our Safari Begins!!!!

Mari

Wine Touring and Eating around South Africa

What a wonderful day! Jeff and I are both so surprised by the warmth, the quality and the beauty here in South Africa's Wine Land. It's similar to Sonoma more than Napa. The wineries that we visited today were each unique. All of the wines we have tried are young. They are good for the most part...drinkable but not yet excellent.

Today, our driver Kenneth started our day at Delaire Graff Estate. The Graff part is the diamond jeweler. The wine estate is adjacent to a lovely small hotel called (no surprise) Delaire Graff Lodge and Spa. The views were breathtaking. The hotel was at 100% occupancy so I couldn't see the rooms from the inside. What I did see was that each room had its own pool...very romantic!! The spa and gym was serene and modern. Now to the winery...We tried their Sauvignon Blanc which was my favorite, a Chenin Blanc and their Delaire Botsmaskop named after the peak of the local mountain. Good wines...not great.

Next, we went for a wine and chocolate pairing at Waterford Estate. This winery really understood how to use space. They had an indoor/outdoor tasting area. It was such a pleasant day...we had our tasting outdoors. We had 3 different parings. I loved the Kevin Arnold Shiraz paired with the masala chai dark chocolate. Next, we had their Waterford Cab which was so so with their rock salt dark chocolate. Jeff's favorite wine was their Heatherleigh (pretty name, right?) which is a Muscat Semilion blend - dessert wine for those who aren't familiar...served with a flowered flavored chocolate.

After this "exhasting" wine tasting...we had to have lunch! We were driven to the Hidden Hills section of Stellenbosch to have lunch at Overture Restaurant. I can see why so many people write about this restaurant. It is fabulous with a stunny view of the Hidden Valley! Our lunch began with homemade bread and marinated eggplant with zucchini. We both enjoyed the Cauliflower puree with seared tuna and sweet corn. This was a very complex dish which the chef pulled off perfectly. Next, we had gnocchi with pumpkin and finally their entrecote. The ambiance of this restaurant was totally unpretenscious and we enjoyed every moment and bite.

MARI


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It is now 2 days later and 2 dinners later. We dined at Pierneef a La Motte Restaurant at the La Motte Wine Farm...btw...wineries are called wine farms in South Africa (very cool). The setting was fantastic. From the highway, you go up a long gravel road which ends in front of a "goddess" like statue pouring water to wine. We were greeted at the door by our lovely server, walked past the open kitchen in which we watched the young female chef. We then arrived at our table. What was so much fun were the 3 chandeliers. Each was made of dangling chinawear. That plus contemporary chairs and a wood burning fireplace, the setting was set for an excellent experience. We enjoyed barley soup with beef marrow with a hint of lemon pepper, bokkom salad with dried apricots. Bokkum is dried salty fish. We had salmon trout with celery root puree, fennel and tarragon sauce...all for about $100 USD for two including wine pairings.

The following night was our last night in Franschhoek. We saved The Tasting Room for last. The concept of The Tasting Room is that we are supposed to be surprised with this authentic African dining experience. Each of the 8 tastings came with a story ranging from the personal experience of the servers - historic stories, grandmother stories or information about the roots used to the restaurant manager's story of the Happy Egg which was slow cooked for 40 minutes. Some of the small plates included: beetroot, spinach and onion puree, buttermilk labne, dill and cucber granita to begin with, organic egg yolk, vegetable cornflakes, mustard leaf, sherry caramel, "Wonderbag" pasture fed lamb shoulder, cauliflower, amasi, radish, fermented garlic to name a few.

Because the restaurant was at Auberge Le Quartier Francais, we were able to walk to our room safely and think about all of the amazing African flavors that we just enjoyed. The food there is outstanding and we never had this kind of experience before!

On our last morning at Auberge le Quartier Francais, we met with the auberge's owner, Susan and Linda the General Manager. They are devoted to this property and I feel that it is a MUST part of your visit to Cape Town.

For more details...please contact me after November 1st :-)

Stay tuned for Cape Town!

MARI

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After lunch, we visited a 4th generation family winery named Overgaauw. Loved their Merlot and Port wines.

During our stay at Le Quartier Francais, I have been so fortunate to count on Linda Coltart, the General Manager for her suggestions for restaurants and wineries. Last night, Linda outdid herself with the recommendation to dine at Pierneef a La Motte Restaurant. We had a wonderful meal in a contemporary setting. The manager, Anne de Jager could not have been more friendly. From the moment we drove into this winery/restaurant we felt like we were going to experience something special. The drive leading up to the building ends in front of a statue of a goddess like woman pouring water. We were greeted at the door and quickly escorted to our table. There are 3 chandeliers with 3 different china pattern dishes hangling from each fixture in the dining room. What a great fun concept!

Our meal began with a salmon tartar amuse bouche and home made bread. The dinner concept is new at his restaurant. You are allowed to choose half or full portions with the emphasis on the half portions so you can try their many unique dishes - sort of like tapas style. We loved the barley soup with hints of lemon pepper. We bravely tried their bokkom salad (bokkom is salted dried fish) with dried apricot and almonds and had their salmon trout with fennel-terragon sauce. Dessert was a home made apple tart with cinnamon ice cream. Anne helped us with La Motte Winery wine pairings and the entire bill was approximately $100! What a find!

Tomorrow, we are going to be picked up for a site tour of a new hotel called, The Pepper Club and go to Le Quartier Francais's famous The Tasting Room for dinner.

I can't wait to share this with you...

MARI

Le Quartier Francais in Franschhoek

Le Quartier Francais is such a wonderful boutique hotel. It is located in the small town of Franschhoek off the main street. It is a quiet, established 21 room hotel. Even though the hotel is approximately 30 years old, it is completely modern and the bedrooms and bathrooms look new. The rooms range from their standard Auberge Rooms, to the Grande Rooms with oversized chairs and huge windows. Next, is our room which is the Petite Garden Suite with a private garden. The final two rooms are the Auberge Suites wth a private pool and a loft for the children and finally the Four Quarters rooms which are 4 rooms surrounding a private courtyard and pool. All of the beds have inviting bed linens, wood burning fireplaces and flat screen tvs. Most of the spacious bathrooms have dual sinks and seperate showers and tubs. Most of the rooms surround the hotel's inviting pool with have large chaise lounges around the pool. The hotel provides complementary transportation to many of the restaurants and places around Franschhoek. This is sophisticated elegance - casual style.

The hotel has 2 restaurants. The Common Room is their casual restaurant that also serves daily breakfast which if you are MY client...is a Virtuoso amenity. The second restaurant is their world reknown, The Tasting Room which I will write about in a few days. Last night, we were exhasted so we decided to eat in The Common Room. Dinner is served "tapas style" with the exception of chicken or steak served a la carte. We enjoyed 2 different salads and Jeff had a short rib pizzette which was so good and I had probably one of the best wild mushroom risottos that I've ever eaten. Hats off to The Common Room.

There is one all purpose spa room which offers various kinds of facials, body treatments and manicures. It is very peaceful and the therapists were quite good.

To orient yourselves...Franschhoeck is one half hour away from Stollenbosch and Stollenbosch is 45 minutes away from Cape Town. My next blogs will be more about the food and wine...better than I ever expected!

Stay tuned!!

Mari

Our 35 hour LA to the Wine Lands of So. Africa adventure

...well, we made it! 3 planes later and a few delays. Here are some surprises...
British Air was very nice. The staff couldn't have been more friendly. So thank you, British Air.
We landed in Cape Town and were driven to Franschoek. The airport was outside of Cape Town so went through rolling hills, past shanty towns that the driver was embarrased by through Stellenbosch to Franschoek. The routing reminded me of a smaller Sonoma/Napa. Stellenbosch boasts 300 wineries and Franschoek has less. Stellenbosch has a 30,000 student college. The city is compact with cute little boutiques. Of course, I HAD to stop at a children's boutique for my first purchase...dresses for my new granddaughter, Maddy.
Tomorrow, I will describe our wonderful hotel, Le Quartier Francais and it's lovely General Manager, Linda Coltart.
Mari