FRENCH POLYNESIA SEPT 2014: The Brando

THE BRANDO

September, 2014

The Brando Lagoon

The Brando began as a dream from actor, Marlon Brando.  He cherished his special place in the world, the atoll of Tetiaroa and hoped to share his vision with others about the interdependence between nature and mankind.  

Tetiaroa Atoll is a quick 20 minute flight on a 8 seat airplane from Tahiti.

Tetiaroa Atoll is a quick 20 minute flight on a 8 seat airplane from Tahiti.  There is a charge for this flight and arrangements must be made in advance.  The view as you approach this piece of heaven is incredible.  From the distance, the atoll looks like a strip of blue as as you get closer and closer, the blue turns into many shades of magic.

Atoll of Tetiaroa

The Tetiaroa Society which is a non profit evolved from Brando's dream with the wish to inspire sustainability.  It sponsors an Ecostation that allows scientists to work in a living case study to then bring their results to other situations around the world. The Ecostation is designed to LEED Platinum standards.  Some of their projects include Lagoon Fish and Crustacean Replenishment, Mosquito Population Control and a Bird and Green Turtle Sanctuary.  Part of their mission statement includes “Tetiaroa is a place of rare biodiversity and a natural sanctuary for birds and marine life. Preserving and protecting this rare habitat and its plant and animal life is critical to us.”

The Brando Resort offers 35 one, two and three bedroom villas along their vast beachfront.  Each villa is private and positioned along the beach with views and privacy in mind.  I am sitting in villa 210 which is a sunset villa.  It is an easy 3 minute walk from the central hub of the resort. The view of the reef is stunning.  Because The Brando is an atoll, I can see both the space within the atoll which is a lagoon and then the crashing waves along the reef separating the lagoon from the sea.

View from our living room

The outside area of each villa includes a beautiful thatched covered sitting area called a Fare Pote to enjoy a drink, breakfast, lunch and/or dinner.  Treat yourself to breakfast in your villa.  It is amazing!  Your breakfast is delivered to the Fare Pote, set up and then you are called on the phone to let you know that it has been delivered.  The respect for privacy to evident and it really is a romantic thing to do!

There is a wonderful plunge pool, lounge chairs and your own beach area outside the villa.  There is a zen feeling here.  While I was in the water snorkeling, I noticed that it was just my husband, myself and the lagoon fish in the stunning warm water of our lagoon.

1 Bedroom villa - Bedroom

The villas are huge!  The one bedroom villa that I'm in is over 1,000 square feet.  There is a media room with a large TV and a comfortable sitting area.  The bed is so comfortable and faces the water.  There is a separate dressing area that you walk through to access the bathroom. The bathroom has dual sinks and a large shower. Just off the bathroom is an outdoor private bathtub.  The bathroom amenities are just wonderful and totally organic.  The towels, bathrobes and sheets are Frette.

The two and three bedroom villas offer a large dining room table and cooking facilities cleverly hidden from view.  The two bedroom villa's bedrooms are on two different levels and the three bedroom villas offer a bedroom en suite completely separate from the adjacent two bed room villa.  The beachfront on both is quite vast.

Outside the 1 Bedroom Villa

Each villa has new bicycles to ride during the duration of your stay.  After 44 years of not riding a bicyle, I made it onto my bicycle and really enjoyed biking around the resort's beautiful, lush property.

Outside a 2 Bedroom Villa

As part of your “package” (really dislike this term), you have one massage per room per day from a list of four options.  The spa is subcontracted out by Varua Polynesian Spa.  My husband enjoyed the Taurumi Massage and I had the Head to Toe Scrub combined with the Taurumi Massage.  It was a lovely experience.  The spa complex offers a Hamman, plunge pool and tea area to relax in before and after your treatment.

Bathroom

The Brando has two restaurants The Beachcomber Cafe serving breakfast, lunch and dinner and the gourmet restaurant, Les Mutines.  Les Mutine's cuisine is inspired by the French Chef Guy Martin, a 2 star Michelin chef from Paris.  There are two bars as well.  Bob's Bar is a casual bar located on the beach and Te Manu Bar is a tree level bar with six small private terraces overlooking the beach.  This is the place to be at sunset!  The Brando also offers 24 hour room service.  The food is excellent.  Antoine Gonzalez is the Chef on property.  The french pastries and breads are so fresh.  He also uses top ingredients in all of his cuisine.  A great example are the mushrooms in his omelets.  He doesn't use the button mushrooms as most restaurants do.  Instead, Chef Antoine uses morels and it makes a difference!

The View of the Lagoon from our 1 Bedroom Villa

Lunches and dinners at The Brando are also special.  Try the chef's special and you won't go wrong.  I loved the Poisson Cru and also the Sauteed Shrimp and Chicken with Curry.  Boy, does Chef Antoine understand how to prepare the local fish!  I especially loved his preparation of the local lagoon fish, Parrot Fish.  All the food at each venue was perfect and I can't wait for you to try it yourself!

There are many things to do here.  The Brando has a billiard table, ping pong table, all sorts of outdoor sporting such as paddle boards, outrigger canoes and kayaks.  There is a Top Dive shop so diving and snorkeling are always available.  The is a large comfortable pool and a well equipped fitness center.  Babysitters are also available.

1 Bedroom Villa Dressing Room

In addition to the many independent things to do, The Brando offers activities and classes such as experiencing the reef, learning about the local culture, birds and green turtle conservation.  You can also learn how to carve coconuts or tie a pareo.  My husband enjoyed a couple of ukelele classes.

The Ultimate Four Hour Island Tour lead by Tihoni is a must do. Tihoni was a wonderful, knowledgeable guide that showed his “office” which is a string of 12 motus in the Tetiaroa atoll.  We learned about the local birds, visited a hidden lagoon, watched as sharks circled near us, and were told about the green turtles originating from Fiji that the scientists are studying.  This tour was the real deal.  It was paced well with snorkeling thrown in and The Brando's boat was luxurious and covered to protect from the sun.

Transitions to the resort once you arrive into Papeete and from the resort back to Papeete are the resort's only weakness.  Once on property, things move seamlessly.

A few other things to mention:

Wifi is included in the rate and is very strong.

There is a gift shop boutique and Pearl Shop, The Himerava close to the Concierge Desk and another boutique in the Spa.

1 Bedroom Villa

To close, The Brando is an amazing all inclusive resort to escape to.  It is not a social kind of resort as most people seemed to want to keep to themselves.  The staff respects this and is totally professional.  The resort is a “more for more” resort with a respect for privacy in your large and comfortable villa.  I hope that you can find your way to this very special place in the world.

The World is Our Playground!

Mari

FRENCH POLYNESIA SEPT 2014: Moorea

MOOREA:
IT JUST KEEPS GETTING BETTER!

Hilton Moorea

I've returned to my favorite Hilton Moorea for 4 nights.  Before I give you the updates, this is just a recap of the island of Moorea.

Moorea

To me, Moorea is my favorite island in French Polynesia for things to do, see and restaurants to enjoy.  Moorea is a 30 minture ferry ride or a 7 minute flight from Papeete.  It is a true island (opposed to a Motu or an Atoll) that is only 34 km around so it's really easy to navigate.

You want to go the market ... no problem there are choices from the small mom and pop places to larger Marches (french for markets) such as France's larger market, Champion Market.

How about trying water sports?  There are so many choices from canoes to paddle boarding, jet skiing and much more.

Diving and snorkeling ... got you covered!

A picture from my Daughter & Son-in-Law's
experience with Dr. Poole while on their honeymoon

Do you want to see dolphins and whales - ask for Dr. Poole's tours.

Spas here on Moorea are not the uber modern type found on Bora Bora but they are relaxing and have complete services.  Try a massage in your room at sunset - it's magical!  Both the Hilton Moorea and the Intercontinental Moorea have lovely spas offering full services.

Tahitian Black Pearls or Perles which is the french way of spelling.  There are so many pearl shops to choose from.  Iv'e been to them all on Moorea as i w was shopping for my set of pearls.  Each shop that I visited except for one offered me a referral commission when I told them that I was a Tahiti travel specialist.  The one shop that DID

Eva Pearles

NOT offer commission is where I purchased my own pearls.  Why?  Because the owner was honest and had wonderful quality pearls.  Simple.  That store was Eva Pearles and Eva, the owner is totally reputable and honest.  Eva also speaks perfect English because she studied in Wisconsin.  Eva took the time to explain the differences in pearls regarding their quality and their colors.  Take your time ... you will not feel rushed.  I promise, I won't get a referral fee and you will have a wonderful experience and hopefully ... bring home a memory of Moorea that will last you a lifetime.

Snack Mahana

Finally, (everyone's favorite topic) restaurants.There are quite a few to try.  Most are a mix of Polynesian cuisine mixed with French cuisine.  I have my favorites so ask for my preferred list but to give you an idea, here are two quite different recommendations:

Mahogany Restaurant

Best place for lunch with local flavor - Snack Mahana.  You MUST bring cash because they do not take credit cards.  We have their famous breaded mahi mahi in coconut milk and it was wonderful!
Best place for profiteroles - you know, the little puff pastries  with ice cream in the middle and yummy chocolate sauce over it - Mahogany Restaurant is the winner!

Now for the Hilton Moorea

The Hilton Moorea JUST GETS IT RIGHT AND KEEPS GETTING BETTER & BETTER!

Hilton Moorea

Here are some of the changes that I've seen and enjoyed:

Poisson Cru at the Roti Restaurant

Do you know the hotel now has an herb garden?!  I met the Head Chef, a lovely shy man from the Southwestern part of France - Chef Laurent.  The cuisine has improved 100%!!  
In addition to a wonderful breakfast and one of the best lunch venues (you must try their Poisson Cru which is the BEST that I have ever enjoyed on all of the islands), the hotel now offers a fun venue for Happy Hour with 2 for 1 drinks and special prices for their bar food.  There's a new Tapas Bar (love this spot - it's fun and the food is great) and a Crepes Bar.  Their dinner venue at Arii Vahine now is part of my recommended restaurant list.  Make sure to try the "Black Pearl" dessert to end your perfect meal at the Hilton Moorea.

Arii Vahine Restaurant

The Hilton Moorea's GM, Karine and I met for dinner last night.  What a dynamic insightful person.  The standards at the Hilton Moorea do not feel like a typical Hilton.  In fact, my husband mentioned to me that this is well beyond what people would except from any Hilton hotel or resort.

We discussed her wonderful staff.  Many of the staff members at the Hilton Moorea have been here for years and years.  The Polynesian people can be shy and keep in mind that English is not their first language.  You almost have to get past this to understand their genuine kindness and humor.  I really adore some oft eh staff and love to hear "welcome home" when I arrive. Say HI to Dinah, Norma, Crystal, Gaelle, Rose, Barbara and Francie for me.

Hilton Moorea

All of the rooms are carefully maintained and that is hard to accomplish in the islands because of the sun and the challenges with supply issues are quite daunting.  I love the changes with the bedding.  The sheets are comfortable and the bedspreads are (thankfully) a thing of the past.  The bath amenities from Peter Thomas Roth are an improvement.  My only suggestion is that the outdoor chaise lounges in the over the water bungalows need cushions.

Hilton Moorea

My final thoughts ... you will be in good hands when you choose Hilton Moorea.  It is a perfect introduction to what makes French Polynesia so unique.  You can spend 4-5 nights here and then try one of the other islands such as Taha'a and Bora Bora.

Stay tuned!

The World is Our Playground!

Mari

FRENCH POLYNESIA SEPT 2014: Kia Ora - Rangiroa

FRENCH POLYNESIA

KIA ORA – RANGIROA

September 6-8, 2014

Kia Ora Resort Pool

We had a good flight from LAX to PPT.  It took 8 hours.  

The lines upon arrival were pretty bad.  Usually, it takes 20-30 minutes to get through passport control but this time, it was closer to 45 minutes.   

Air Tahiti Nui Economy

After picking up our luggage we had to go to the domestic terminal (to make our transfer).  In the past, I've always had a “Meet and Greet” service but this time I chose not to have it so I could see what that was like.  Normally, the “Meet and Greet” service would have had my boarding passes and know the people to skip the line so the process usually takes 5-10 minutes.  This process without their assistance took 45 minutes!  I now see the value of the “Meet and Greet” service!

Air Tahiti Nui Business

From Papeete to Rangiroa, the flight had to make 1 stop in Tikehau.  The total flight time was 1 hour 45 minutes.  All went well.  The plane has approximately 80 seats and is a turboprop airplane.  When we arrived in Rangiroa, we were greeted with a lei and after dealing with our luggage, we drove 5 minutes to the Kia Ora Resort.

The Kia Ora Resort is lovely.  We were greeted with a cool cloth and juice.  Our villa was ready for us which was a definite plus because we wanted to freshen up.  Kia Ora has 3 basic room types.  The beach bungalows, villas and over the water bungalows.  We were in the villas and I loved it!

Air Tahiti Nui Flight to Rangiroa

Three years ago, Kia Ora renovated their villas and they are quite nice.  The main take away is that the rooms have a private plunge pool and yard and when I say private ... it really is!  Some other resorts that I have visited have the plunge pool but the fence that surrounds you makes you feel claustrophobic but this villa construction does not feel that way.  It's open and comfortably large with lovely vegetation.  There is a covered area to enjoy a meal or simply enjoy a glass of wine and celebrate who are are with.

Pool

The beach bungalows have wonderful views and direct beach access.  I preferred the bungalows that were to the left of the pontoon.  The rooms need updating but if views and beach access are important to you, then this is a wonderful option.

The over water bungalows are also nice but for this property, I prefer the villas ... save the over the water bungalows for another island.

There is only one bar and one restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner at Kia Ora.  The food was nice but if you are a foodie/wine person, lower your expectations and be prepared.  There is a restaurant option outside the property 2 minutes away but that's about it.

Kia Ora Resort Villa

I had a very frank conversation with Gerry, the GM of Kia Ora and learned quite a bit about the property and the challenges of being a resort on the outer islands.  There are only 3,000 people that reside on Rangiroa.  Everything needs to be flown in and that adds to the general cost of doing business.  Luckily for Kia Ora, Gerry REALLY cares.  He is such a hand's on GM and I respect his insight.  Great guy!

Kia Ora Resort Beach Bungalow

Rangiroa is not really an island with a mountain in the middle like Tahiti, Moorea or Bora Bora.  It is a reef on an atoll.  Looking at a map helps.  There is only a 6 mile stretch on this part of Rangiroa to visit.  My thoughts are if you really are into diving and snorkeling, Rangiroa and the 4 star, Kia Ora is worth a visit.  Le Taha'a on the motu just off the island of Taha'a is the most similar but is more expensive and a five star experience.

Kia Ora Resort Over the Water Bungalow Interior

Stay tuned!

The World is Our Playground!

Mari